What are the well-known techniques for manufacturing of silk sarees?

Saree is one of the most popular traditional attire for the women in India. There are several styles of Sarees famous in India and Gadwal sarees are one of those. These sarees are made in the small town of Gadwall in Andhra Pradesh. These sarees are filled with designs of temples, and their borders have beautiful and exotic shapes.

These sarees are weaved using Silk or cotton or sometimes a hybrid of both. These beautifully designed sarees are now manufactured on a large scale owing to their increasing popularity. The origin of this style occurred when some weavers from Gadwal went to Banaras to learn the techniques of weaving this style. This led to a new variety of handwoven Gadwal sarees. As the weaving machines came into existence, the commercialisation of these sarees started.

Gadwal sarees are a mixture of cotton and silk with the entire saree weaved from cotton with the borders made from silk. The manufacturing is done in a way that these sarees are suitable for most of the occasions. Sarees are woven using interlocked weft borders wherein the designs are made available in contrasting colours. These Gadwal sarees are made in small, medium and large borders, and the golden zari work along the lengths provides a unique touch. As the demand for Gadwal sarees has increased, the weaving is mostly done in looms or textiles.

Another silk saree style which originated in Andhra Pradesh are the Ikkat silk sarees. Ikkat requires two craftsmen, the weaver and dye expert. They combine to create a masterpiece of ikkat sarees. This style is also present in Asia-Pacific (China, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan), Latin America (Guatemala, Mexico, Ecuador, Peru, Chile and Argentina), the Middle East (Egypt, Iran, Syria, Turkey and Yemen), West Africa and Europe (Italy and Spain all with their regional differences.

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The story of ikkat in India and its varieties

The name ikkat brings images of intricate diamond-shaped patterns, curved scroll and paisley designs in front of the eyes. The printed designs on fabrics are through complex weaving style which uses specially dyed threads to develop a pattern on the fabric. The method of ikkat is unique despite being a tie-dye textile art.

Ikkat is a technique which was not originated in India and historians are unclear about its place of origin as the method is spread far around the world. The word ikkat originated from the Malay-Indonesian word Mengikat which means to tie a bundle of yarn or threads. There is evidence of ikkat found in India which dates to the seventh century. 

It is used to make sarees, ethnic and fusion wear. Ikkat kurtas are among the most loved in India and the same with the sarees. Ikkat patterns are available in more than ten varieties and the weavers here who are involved in ikkat sarees wholesale.

A unique technique of weaving is Telia Rumal from Andhra Pradesh. In this method, the yarn is tie-dyed and treated with a special oil to give the fabric a characteristic sheen. This technique is usually double ikkat, and both warp and weft with motifs are drawn on them. The shapes which are outlined on these sarees are geometric and repetitive. The designs are large, well-defined diamonds, hexagons with squares. Over time, this art has suffered difficulties and was close to extinction but is on the path of revival currently.

The name given to silk in Telugu is Pattu, and Pattu silk sarees are popular in the whole Indian subcontinent. The Kanchipuram silk sarees and Banarasi sarees are especially fashionable in the South and North of India respectively.

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Why are pattu sarees an important part of Indian heritage?

The uppada pattu saree is a unique silk saree woven in Uppada of East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. Uppada pattu is the name of silk in Telugu, and these sarees are manufactured from the method known as Jamdani. These sarees are made using the cotton warp and using non-mechanical techniques.

History of Uppada sarees-

The history of these sarees is related to the Jamdani weaving technique. In the 19th century, there was an industrial revolution in England which affected the jamdani technique, and it was only in the 20th century that this technique witnessed resurgence.

In 1988, the technique was introduced in Uppada and using this technique, the designs which were related to the culture of Andhra Pradesh were made. This was the start of Uppada pattu sarees wholesale. However, it still took about ten years for this saree style to get popular in India and the whole world.

Manufacturing-

In the weaving process of Uppada sarees, two weavers working on a single loom. They weave delicate designs using the zari work. The technique is practised using handwork, and thus, it takes up to two months for the process to finish.

These sarees are among the most expensive sarees in the world, and the price range is between Rs 5000 to 20,000.

In the state of Telangana, the handcrafted woven sari style of Gadwal sarees is popular. These sarees are known for the zari work which is done on them. The border in these sarees is made from silk whereas the rest of the body is manufactured using cotton.

The traditional Gadwal sarees wholesale is manufactured using white cotton and has a coloured pallav and border. Their borders are designed using brocaded designs and motifs of mango, peacocks and other elements of nature.

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Top features of Kanchi Pattu sarees

Kanchipuram, a city, located in Tamil Nadu is famous for two reasons primarily- temples and sarees. The sarees manufactured in these cities are known by the name of Kanchi sarees or Kanchi Pattu Sarees. The quality of Kanchi sarees is comparable to the Benarasi sarees in the north.

The city of Kanchipuram has a thriving handloom industry, and the primary profession of a large population living in this city is weaving silk sarees. Silk weavers came here around 400 years back and gave this city the reputation of producing best silk sarees in the whole country.

Some features of Pattu sarees-

The sarees manufactured in this city are made by a unique process. 1.2 inches of warp frame will have 60 holes in which there will be 240 threads in Warp and around 250 to 300 threads in the wept which gives strength to the saree. The silk used for manufacturing these sarees comes from the cities of Bangalore, Dharmavaram, Hosur and Coimbatore.

Zari used in these sarees is manufactured using original gold and silver. A typical kg of zari is produced using 50% silver, around five gms of gold and balance silk. The silk and gold are rolled together, and the gold coating is applied on the top. The zari is imported from Surat, Gujarat to be used in these sarees and only a few families know about zari making.

Parts of Kanchipuram sarees-

A Kanchi saree consists of three main components- the body, “pallu” and the border. All the three parts of these sarees come in contrasting colours, and most of the designs in pallu come from the scriptures and art of the temples.

These soft silk sarees have immense popularity in India and the rest of the world. People travel to Kanchipuram to purchase these hand-woven sarees.

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What gives Gadwal sarees the fame throughout India?

Originating from a small town called Gadwal in Mahbubnagar district, Andhra Pradesh, the Gadwal sarees are one of the most popular sarees in the whole country. They are known for the unique mix of fabrics and design. The entire town is known for its saree weaving, and it has a large population of skilled weavers. These sarees are manufactured using silk, cotton or a combination of both.

Gadwal sarees are woven using the interlocked weft technique known as “Kupadam” which also give these sarees their local name. The Kupadam sarees are manufactured from cotton and borders are made with silk.

The Gadwal sarees came into existence in the 1930s along with the spinning looms which were made to help the weavers. In the earlier sarees, the designs used to be of temples and nature. Those sarees used mostly earth colours and vibrant designs. As the time passed and the commercialisation of these sarees occurred, brighter colours were introduced in the designs.

Some features of Gadwal sarees are as follows-

The most common element in these sarees is the body gets manufactured from cotton, and the pallu and borders are made of silk. The silk of these sarees is made from Tussar silk or Mulberry silk. The golden zari work along the length of the boundaries give these sarees an exquisite touch.

Another style of saree originated in Andhra Pradesh are the ikkat pattu sarees. Ikkat is a technique used to pattern the textiles that employ a resist dyeing process like tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres. A characteristic of ikkat textiles is the blurriness which is found in this design. This blurriness is due to the extreme difficulty the weaver has in lining up the dyed yarns.

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How is silk used to design the most elegant sarees?

Silk is considered a luxury good in the Indian sub-continent, and about 97% of the silk is produced in five states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, West Bengal and Jammu and Kashmir. In the recent discoveries in Harappa and Chanhu-Daro, it was found that Sericulture was widely practised during the time of Indus valley civilisation between 2450 BC and 2000 BC.

The traditional name of silk in South India is Pattu. Some of the most popular Pattu silk sarees manufactured in India include Banarasi sarees, Kanchipuram sarees, Thanchoi sarees, Patola sarees and Paithani sarees.

Kanchipuram sarees get their name from the city of Kanchi located close to Chennai in Tamil Nadu. The Kanchipuram silk sarees have always stood out from the other styles due to their intricate weaving patterns and the quality of silk. Similarly, a Banarasi silk saree is made in Varanasi, which is also called by the name of Banaras. They are among the most popular and beautiful sarees of India. These sarees come with Gold and silver zari, elegant silk and opulent embroidery.

 A unique weaving style of sarees is “Ikkat”. It is a resist dyeing process, where bundles of yarn are tightly wrapped together and then dyed to create the desired pattern. To replicate a model, the weaver would have to dye the thread in the same place as before and line it up on a loom in the same place, and then they’d have to weave it the same way.

There are three different ikkat sarees wholesale styles to create patterns, which are mentioned below-

•Warp Ikkat- In Warp ikkat, the weft yarns are all dyed a solid colour and only the warp yarns are ikat dyed. The patterns are visible when the threads are wound on the loom.

•Weft Ikkat- In Weft ikkat, the weft threads are ikkat dyed. It is a more complicated process than Warp ikkat as patterns are formed as the weaving progress.

•Double Ikkat-  The most complicated of the three, double ikat, is where both the warp and weft threads are resist-dyed before weaving

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What are the features of Gadwal sarees which make them distinct?

Produced in the southern state of Andhra Pradesh, Gadwal sarees are pleasing and essential part of the Indian tradition and cultures. The sarees are known for their vibrant colours and delightful yet straightforward zari work. The method of manufacturing of these sarees involve making the body with cotton threads, and pallu is woven with silk.

The sarees are preferred for festive wear and worn popularly in other formal occasions as well. Modern women prefer to wear sarees made of pure silk and cotton. Purchasing of gadwal sarees wholesale is the only way of getting the desired tradition attire. Several elements are used to weave a fully accomplished Gadwal saree.

The other attractive features of a Gadwal saree include rich and elaborate zari work on the border and pallu. The zari embroidery on the pallu of a traditional gadwal saree fills the width and breadth of the available area. One variant of the Gadwal sarees is the Sico Gadwal which makes use of a blend of cotton and silk threads. The current trends in Gadwal sarees, however, are showing embellishments in the entire saree as opposed to the specific sections. Gadwal sarees are also used by working women as an official attire as it is seen as the perfect blend of classical and modern features.

Another name famous in sarees is Uppada silk sarees. A small beach town located in the East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh, this town distributes sarees from all over the country. The colour and motif of these sarees have changed to suit the taste of buyers.

Uppada pattu sarees wholesale manufacturing is done with Jamdani weaving style. This weaving style originated in the state of Bengal and was passed on to different states of India. The Jamdani style is also known with the name of Neelambari style in the north.

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