What goes into the preparation of an ikkat saree?

The term ikkat is given to a dying technique which is used to create designs on the fabric. Although ikkat is one of the most complex methods, it is believed that it was developed simultaneously in different parts of the world. The most popular form of ikkat is produced in India, Indonesia and Japan. Each type of ikkat is different and has its distinct patterns, styles and choice of colour.

This is a resist dyeing process where the bundles of yarn are wrapped together and then dyed according to the requirement. It is different to the standard dying process as the yarns are dyed and then woven into the cloth. In most of the other dyeing techniques, it is seen that final fabric is dyed rather than the thread.

After the yarn is suitably dyed and dried, the weaver lines them up on the loom to form the patterns. This is when the design starts taking form, and the yarn is woven into the cloth. The process of manufacturing designs can be a complicated as the dying needs to be precise. The ikkat sarees wholesale is done using three weaving techniques, and they are explained below-

•Warp ikkat- In Warp ikkat, the weft yarns are dyed by a solid colour, and only the warp yarns get ikkat dyed. The pattern is visible in the case when the threads are wound on the loom. The weaving in the weft thread can solidify the colour and completes the formation.

•Weft ikkat- In Weft ikkat, the yarn is ikkat dyed, and it is more complicated than warp.

•Double ikkat- In this technique both the warp and weft threads are resist-dyed before weaving. It requires advanced skills and time to accomplish.

The pattu silk sarees manufactured in South India are quite popular among the online buyers, and varieties like Kanchi pattu and Banaras silk sarees remains in high demand.

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What is the speciality of Kanchipuram sarees?

In the Kanchipuram region of Tamil Nadu, there are unique pattu sarees which are woven from pure mulberry silk thread. There are more than a dozen different hand-woven silk sarees, but none of them is as expensive as Kanchi pattu sarees.

The city of Kanchipuram has 20,000 looms where 3 to 4 weavers work on each loom, and around 4 to 5 lakh sarees are produced every year. The Government of Tamil Nadu has set up a technology Information forecasting and assessment council for testing the Zari which is used in sarees.

A simple kanjivaram saree can cost around Rs 25,000, and it can also go as high as Rs 40 lakhs. They hold the record for the most expensive sarees as well. Despite being encrusted with large ornaments, these sarees are not at all heavy. The exquisite zari work is also a unique feature of these sarees. These are one of the few sarees which come with delicate Zari work.

It can be produced in two ways- First are the machine-made art zari Kanjeevaram sarees which are mass-produced in a matter of days and second is pure handwoven Kanjeevaram silk saree takes a minimum of 4 weavers and three months of daily labour to finish. The weavers are involved in weaving a 6-yard smooth, shimmering cloth like flowing water. As the price rises, it is seen that pallu can be a simple thick golden pallu or woven motifs of mangoes, parrots, lamps and mythological scenes.

In south India, there is a special place of soft silk sarees in women wardrobe, and they are mostly in bright colours, double shades and Zari work. The sarees which are made of gold are reserved for brides as the original wedding dress. These are the sarees which are passed on to the next generation.

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The cultural significance of Gadwal sarees in modern India

Gadwal sarees is a handcrafted woven saree style which was invented in Gadwal of Jogulamba District. These sarees are woven in cotton weft with golden brocade patterns and further embellished designs which makes them distinctive. The colours used in these sarees are of contrasting nature, and these sarees demonstrate a blend of ethnicity and modern designs.

The technique to weave Sarees in the interlocked-weft technique known as "Kupadam". The entire saree is made of cotton while the border is made of silk. The weight of these sarees is light and can be folded into a matchbox. The golden zari work along the length of the borders gives these sarees an exquisite touch. These designs which are woven into the Gadwal sarees represent the South Indian cultural patterns.

The motifs have popular patterns such as peacock and rudraksha. Some of the other features of Gadwal sarees are as follows-

•A traditional Gadwal saree is woven in white cotton and has a coloured pallav and border. This feature gives sarees a more ethnic look.

•Another name for Gadwal sarees is Kootu, and it has a unique aspect about it that the cotton body part is combined to the silky pallav warp manually.

•A variant of Gadwal sarees is Kudapam. It has a contrasting border, and the pallav portion is weaved using three shuttle techniques. The body of a Kudapam saree is fabricated using plain or dyed silk.

The cost of a typical Gadwal saree is in the range of 10,000 to 15,000.

A dying technique which is used to pattern textiles that employ the resist dying on the yarns before dying is called Ikkat. The ikkat silk sarees are known for their blurriness, and this blurriness is due to the extreme difficulty the weaver has lining up the dyed yarns.

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What is the significance of ikkat in Andhra Pradesh?

The process of dying cotton or silk clothes is known by the name of ikkat. Pronounced as “ee-kaht,” this is a unique fabric style with the earliest origins in Asia and South America. It is one of those inventions which occurred simultaneously at two places.

It is the name of the yarn, the technique and fabric. The name originated in Indonesia, and it translates to tie or to knot. The original method of ikkat was a unique and beautiful process in comparison to the modern-day printing. The threads in an ikkat are bound in a pattern so that the threads covered by the binding “resist” the dye, create a design. To create a complicated pattern, more binding needs to be done on it.

The double ikkat is considered as the most complicated form of dying. In this, both weft and warp threads are dyed. The result can be a blurry or precise design depending upon the origin of the ikkat technique. When a specific design is required, thread adjustments are done every time the shuttle passes through the weft yarns.

Indian Ikkat sarees wholesale manufacturing is done in the state of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. The telia rumal is the most distinct ikkat of Andhra Pradesh. It is known for the process of oil treating the yarn. The ikkat practised in Orissa is called Bandha. This ikkat is ancient, and 5000-year-old Odishan ikkat was found in a Pharoah’s tomb.

In Telugu, silk is known by the name of Pattu silk sarees, and the Kanchi Pattu sarees are quite favourite along with the Uppada pattu sarees. Uppada sarees are given the name from the small town of Uppada which is in East of Godavari in Andhra Pradesh. The Price of these sarees can be between Rs 5000 and 10,000.

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Why are Uppada sarees important for the weavers and culture of Andhra Pradesh?

In the state of Andhra Pradesh, which is known for the cotton sarees, there is a village named Uppada located in East Godavari district. There is a small village situated near Uppada is Peddapuram, and the population of 25,000 are all involved in the weaving of famous Uppada handlooms.

The Uppada handlooms are also known for their unique designs. They are made in the cotton warp and wept using the non-mechanical techniques. The Uppada silk sarees are identified by the thread count of their length and breadth. The artists use zari work to make these sarees distinct and beautiful designs are weaved on them.

The colouring of these sarees is done using the yarn which is first washed and then dipped in the required colour which is present in a boiler. A worker then goes on to turn the yarn which mixes the tone evenly into the yarn. This is the most crucial process in manufacturing as the colour in the yarn becomes more permanent, and a polished look is given to the thread. A master weaver buys this yarn from the merchants and distributes it to the weavers.

Weaving is done using the looms which are frame looms. In frame looms, weaver sits on a stool and use his hands and legs to weave. The uppada pattu sarees wholesale price ranges between 5,000 to 8,000 and even a few lacs when made for wedding ceremonies.

Similarly, Gadwal is another small town in Andhra Pradesh which is known for its sarees. The Gadwal sarees wholesale are a mix of fabric and designs. These sarees have the borders made of silk while the saree is made from cotton. They have instrumental in the growth of the textile industry of Andhra Pradesh.

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What is the relation of silk to the city of Kanchipuram?

When the material of a saree is discussed, silk is always on top of the list. India is the second largest country in the world to produce silk. It is also the home to different varieties of silk fabrics.  There are 29 states here, and all create a different kind of silk. Silk is used to create traditional clothing like salwar suits, dupattas, lehengas, but saree is the most popular.

Soft silk sarees can give an elegant look in the traditional ceremonial events, festivals and informal events like a house party. There are five most popular silk sarees which are given below-

•Chanderi silk sarees

•Kanchi pattu sarees or Kanchipuram sarees

•Banarasi silk sarees

•Paithani silk sarees

•Mysore silk sarees

Kanchipuram or Kanjivaram is a traditional variety of silk which originated from the village called Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu. Kanchipuram silk sarees are the most popular sarees in South India and are an integral part of weddings here. These sarees have a shine and durability which make them a favourite of women.

The silk is obtained from the mulberry worm which is then converted to Kanchipuram sarees. These hand-woven sarees are known for the 1.2 inches of the warp frame. This frame holds up to 60 holes through which there would be 240 warp threads. Also, around 250-300 threads get woven into the wept which allows the saree to remain sturdy. It is seen that the zari used in a Kanjivaram saree would be in gold and silver. The silver is used first, and then a coating of gold is applied to it.

Initially, these sarees were made in 9-yard length to describe the temple stories and later they were converted to 6-yard with gold zari weaving on them. There are cheap alternatives to these sarees available for buyers who have a low budget. These alternatives come with artificial gold.

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The importance of Gadwal sarees in Andhra Pradesh

In a small town of Andhra Pradesh, Gadwal sarees originated, and since then, they have spread throughout the world. They are known for their designs and fabrics mixed intricately. In Andhra Pradesh, these sarees have been vital in the growth of the textile industry.

The production of these sarees is now done at a large scale to meet their demand worldwide. These sarees were famous right from the beginning, and the hand-woven varieties of these sarees were the primary source of income for people of Andhra Pradesh.  In the 1930s, the commercialisation of saris made the use of spinning looms and other small manual machines more prominent.

The sarees are made of cotton and the borders with silk. The way these sarees are manufactured makes them adequate for each occasion. Gadwal sarees are woven with interlocked weft borders, and the designs are made with contrasting edges. These sarees are available in small, medium and large borders depending upon the choice of buyer. The golden zari work along the length of borders provides an exquisite touch to these sarees.

The weaving technique which is used in these sarees is called as the Kupadam. It is an interwoven weft technique, and similarly, the weaving style for the borders is called as Kumbam. They are made of pure silk in contrasting colours like lime green.

Like the Gadwal sarees, a dying technique which is used to name sarees is Ikkat. It is used to pattern textiles that employ resist dyeing on the yarns before dying and weaving the fabric. The ikkat pattu sarees have blurriness in them because of the extreme difficulty the weaver has lining up the dyed threads so that the pattern comes out entirely in the finished cloth.

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